The French have been arguing with Spain's independently minded Catalans for centuries over the origins of creme brulee (or in the latter's case crema catalana).

They're similarly styled but different burnt sugar-capped dishes (it's all in the way you make the custard).

If the crema catalana with grilled fruit ($12) at Bodega is anything to go by then I'm giving it to the Catalans on points. Admittedly Elvis Abrahanowicz's sexy free-form scoop of citrussy custard is more French than Spanish in technique but the result is the best of both worlds. It reclines like a Hollywood starlet with a patch of crunchy toffee on top and a smear of bitter orange puree underneath accompanied by a lightly caramelised brochette of grilled strawberries and blood orange.

His almond gazpacho with orange jelly and corn ice-cream ($12) is just as spectacular - a little glass bottle of almond-infused milk escorts a bowl filled with a pretty scattering of Seville orange jelly and blood orange segments. A fascinating corn ice-cream with a popcorn tuile adds humour and crunch. You pour the gazpacho over the other ingredients and thanks to a dash of olive oil and salt it's a wonderfully invigorating finale.